BestFirstMotorcycle.com

As with any product there are many different motorcycle manufacturers in the world, some more popular than others.

Because you have decided to start riding, I figured it would be helpful to compile a list of some popular style bikes and what companies manufacture them. While not all of the following companies are headquartered in the US, you can still find their bikes here.

If you’re not familiar with these styles, read about them here.

Cruisers
Honda
Yamaha
Suzuki
Kawasaki
BMW
Harley Davidson
Victory

Sportbikes
Honda
Yamaha
Suzuki
Kawasaki
BMW
Buell
Ducati
KTM

Standard
Honda
Yamaha
Suzuki
Kawasaki
BMW
Buell
Ducati
KTM

Touring
Honda
Yamaha
Suzuki
Kawasaki
BMW
Harley Davidson

Before making an investment in your bike, you should always have at least a little background information on the company. Purchasing from a reliable, customer service oriented company is always best. Over the next few articles I’ll review these top companies and why you should or shouldn’t buy from them.

-Julie

Though you purchased the bike to fit you, soon you find that long rides are becoming slightly uncomfortable. Below are a few basic modifications that you can make to any bike to ease discomfort, and help you enjoy those long rides ahead.

Seat
Though many companies have made modifications to make their bikes more comfortable, for some reason many seats still seem to be lacking. Changing out the seat on your bike can make you more comfortable, thus allowing you to focus more on the road and less on being uncomfortable. Check out Corbin and Mustang for some good alternative seats for your bike. You may also want to check some of these out at a store for first hand experience.

Changing the height of your seat will also help in the comfort of your ride. Riding with your seat is too high or too short can be a safety hazard. If you’re not confident in making these changes you can simply take your bike to a shop to have them adjust the seat height for you.

Handlebars
The handlebars contribute greatly to the riding position and overall comfort you will have on your bike. If you sit on your bike, close your eyes and imagine where you would like your hands to be. Obviously there may be some comprise between comfort and reality. Once you’ve determined where you’d like to be, you can raise or lower the handlebars, and even adjust the angle at which they sit. By doing so you will find your riding position will change, making you overall more comfortable.

You may also want to play around with changing the handlebars. You can find ones that are wider and narrower. Deciding how you want to ride will guide these purchases. You may also want to check out different grips. There are grips and lever covers to reduce vibrations, ones that are moisture resistant, and even ones that are heated.

Gauges
A final basic modification is the gauges. While they may not bother you as much as the seat or handlebar height, gauges are an important comfort and safety modification. You want to make sure that all controls are easy to reach and gauges are easy to see. Gauges can be backlight, illuminated, colored and more! Easy access to any necessary gauges and controls is a must for your safety. And with safety and ease of access comes comfort!

It’s important to remember that bikes rarely come perfectly fit to each individual person. Making a few small changes to your bike will help to improve comfort and overall handling of the bike.

-Julie

While searching the Internet I found the below article on motorcyclecruiser.com.

The article compares four of the top beginner bikes: the Honda 250 Rebel, the Kawasaki 125 Eliminator, the Suzuki GZ250, and the Yamaha 250 Virago.

What the article points out is that more so than not, these bikes are more similar than they are different. All of these bikes are lightweight, easy to maneuver, and offer relatively low horsepower. Unfortunately, they all seem to suffer from bad suspension and poor brakes.

After racking up some mileage on all of these bikes, the guys over at motorcyclecruiser picked their favorites. Check out the article to see which ones they preferred and why.

If you’re considering any of these bikes, this comparison should give you a little insight.

Beginner Motorcycles Compared: Honda 250 Rebel. Kawasaki 125 Eliminator, Suzuki GZ250, Yamaha 250 Virago

School's out. Are these four light-weight motorcycles from Honda, Kawasaki, Suzuki and Yamaha the best first step for the street? From the June 2001 issue of Motorcycle Cruiser magazine.

Entry-level bikes. Beginner motorcycles. Little bikes. Those names are the kiss of death. We know of three things most Americans hate to admit to being short on: cash, experience or displacement. Here in the Land of the Free, everything seems to be about bigger being better.

Those who pay no heed to this theory need only to look at the cover of this magazine or visit any cruiser watering hole. During the winter months preceding this riding season, what was the topic of endless discussion? The new, biggest-displacement motorcycle ever produced by a major manufacturer. Fortunately, some recourses are available to riders who have somehow managed to avoid the "supersized" fetish. Middleweight cruisers are now stylish, viable alternatives to the big-bore bikes. Those who still think about spending six large or more for their first bike (when they still don't know if this sport's for them) have four less expensive, lightweight options available as 2001 models: Honda's Rebel 250, Kawasaki's Eliminator 125, Suzuki's GZ250 and Yamaha's Virago 250. If that's not enough, three of the lightweight cruisers tested here have been produced for enough years that used ones should be relatively easy to pick up used.

Entry-level bikes have a tough row to hoe. Although cruisers are very much about style, beginner bikes must meet price point criteria that precludes them from being trendsetters. The aftermarket offers little in the way of accessories since owners of lightweights are less likely to customize. The same can be said about performance upgrades. So, one has to ask, what are lightweight cruisers designed for?

Although it may seem incongruous, the 250cc-and-under class of cruisers was made for riding, pure and simple. While some novices may feel comfortable starting off with a middleweight, a sizable percentage of people entering the sport of motorcycling are a little more cautious. Beginning riders and students attending Motorcycle Safety Foundation courses need motorcycles that are reliable and unintimidating. All of these bikes fit that bill.

So, how do we rate these lightweights? First, they have more in common than they have differences. All four bikes are tuned for bottom end and midrange power, which makes leaving stoplights and cruising around town easy. However, engines of such small displacements don't have a wide range of usable power, and consequently, they sign off early when trying to make speed quickly. The result? Riders need to stir the shifter fairly frequently. However, if we look at these bikes as helping new riders develop skills, nothing works better than frequent practice. Upshifting and downshifting, as well as proper gear selection, can be picked up quickly. The only drawback to the small displacement (from a skills development perspective) is lightweights don't offer the power to zip away from potential problems, like their beefier brethren. This deficit is particularly noticeable in Kawasaki's 125 Eliminator.

Because of their small sizes, lightweight cruisers are less intimidating from a weight standpoint. Just check the statistics -- these bikes weigh more than 300 pounds less than most heavyweight cruisers! New riders can be a bit wobbly at times, and having less mass to hold up is a good thing. Similarly, all four of these bikes steer relatively quickly -- responding to a novice's tentative input -- and don't require the assertive manipulation that bigger, heavier bikes do. Here, again, the bikes are an asset in skills development. All four bikes were nimble, but the GZ250 steered a bit slower (almost like a bigger bike), thanks to its beefier front tire. The bikes' small size meant that larger riders did feel cramped, with the Rebel being the most obvious offender.

Unfortunately, all four of the bikes suffer from poorly damped suspensions, undoubtedly a result of the bikes' low price points. Encountering bumps midcorner can be unnerving -- particularly for new riders. All of these bikes suffered from excessive boinginess (a technical term for bikes underdamped on both compression and rebound, causing the chassis to pitch back-and-forth over bumps). The flexible frames also allow the bikes to wallow in sweepers. While novices might be put off by a little stiffer ride, we felt all the bikes needed suspension upgrades.

We also had concerns about the brakes on most of the entry-level bikes. All of the brakes required a firm pull on the lever, firmer, perhaps, than a novice rider might be willing to give in a panic-stop situation. While we agree that new riders don't want brakes that can easily overpower the front wheel (since novices are more likely to grab the front brake initially), we felt that more responsive brakes would benefit them by teaching the proper braking technique, instead of ingraining ham-fisted habits. The Virago, which, however, did exhibit some low speed grabbiness, rewarded the rider with linear braking in relation to the pressure on the lever and stood above the others in this regard.

In the looks department, we'd have to say that we were pleasantly surprised. While plastic did make an appearance on most of the bikes, a large percentage of the bikes had metal fenders. Styling was nicer than we expected, too -- even though the Rebel and the Virago look a little dated. Both the Suzuki and the Eliminator were the standouts from a fashion standpoint with the Eliminator getting the nod for capturing big-bike looks and roominess in a small package.

After living with these bikes for awhile, we'd choose either the Yamaha Virago or Suzuki GZ250. Both of these bikes were rated highly by the testers and offer the widest pallet of options for riding skills development. Smaller riders may want to consider the Rebel. The compact package that confounded the long-legged set make the Honda a good choice for petite folks.

- Julie

In case you’re thinking of purchasing or selling a bike online, I have made a list of sites that sell some great new and used bikes.

cycletrader.com
This is an excellent site for finding new and used bikes for both men and women. They have a huge database of bikes for sale, so you’re almost guaranteed to find what you’re looking for. In addition, this site includes news, research, reviews, and information on warranties, financing and insurance needs. This is also a great site for someone who is trying to sell his or her bike.

motorcyclescan.com
This site also has a large selection of used motorcycles for sale (1,200 at the time I checked), though they don’t offer much in terms of information and reviews. It should definitely be a site to check out if you are price shopping for a new bike. Again on this site you can post an ad for selling your motorcycle.

buyausedmotorcycle.com
This is another great site for those either looking to buy or sell a bike. You can even post your classified ad for free! Not complaining about that! There is also advice for those buying and selling, helping to steer you in the right direction.

hdmotorcyclesforsale.com
If you’re looking specifically for a used Harley, check out this site. This website has lots of listings of just Harley’s, and some informational resources too. You can post an ad for a minimal fee, ensuring that you will reach a Harley-lovin’ audience.

If you realize the benefit of buying your first bike used and plan to look online, these sites are great. Even if you plan on buying locally, in a face-to-face transaction, do you research on these sites. See what similar bikes are being sold for and know the value of the bike you are looking at.

-Julie

If you’re considering buying a used bike, you should know what to look for so you can decide if the bike you’re looking at is worth the price or just a lemon. While a used bike can be a great deal, if you end up with a junk bike, you’ll be extremely disappointed.

I came across the following checklist on essortment.com, which gives a quick list of things you should look for in every used bike.

Brakes
Pads: Inspect pads for glazing. When were they changed last?
Hoses: Inspect hoses for crimps, cracks or other signs of defects.
Fluid: Ask when it was last changed.
Rotor: The bike will vibrate during the driving test if the rotor(s) are warped.
Levers: Are the levers stock or aftermarket? Aftermarket levers may indicate a crash.

Chain and Sprockets
Chain: Check chain adjustment for stretch. Is the chain properly oiled?
Sprockets: Inspect the teeth on the rear sprocket. Are they bent, broken or off center?

Electrical
Lights: Check that all lights are equally bright.
Headlight: Check hi / low settings. Does the headlight get brighter as the bike’s raced? This is a sign of a bad voltage regulator or weak battery.
Switchgears: Inspect for damage and check controls.

Engine
Oil: Is the engine oil dark or gritty? (The engine oil is a key diagnostic tool to determine how the engine has been run.)
Valves: Rev the engine and listen for valve clutter. When were they adjusted? Alternatively check engine compression, if you have a tester.
Coolant: Check coolant, if applicable, and ask when it was changed last.

Exhaust
Color: Blue exhaust smoke is often a sign of bad valves or a failed gasket.
Discoloration: If the pipes are discolored the bike is probably improperly jetted.
Noise: Check for holes in the exhaust or incorrectly mounted systems.
Backpressure: Put your hands over both exhaust openings. Do they have the same amount of pressure? If not one cylinder bank isn’t firing or has valve damage.

Gas Tank
Rust: Rust in the tank means rust in the carburetors and could spell a rebuild.

Suspension
Forks: Do the seals look tight? When were they changed?
Air caps: If the bike has air caps, check the pressure in the forks.
Shock: Does the shock have rebound? Does it “creak” when pushed?

Wheels
Tires: If the tires are only worn in the center, the bike has likely been driven on the highway; if they are worn all the way to the edges it has been ridden in the corners. If it is only worn on the edges it has been raced.
Bearings: Put the bike on the center stand and feel for damaged to the bearings.

Obviously you’ll also want to check the appearance of the bike. Look for dents and scratches, or any other indication of the seller not taking care of the bike or of it being in a crash. Ask if the seller has a listing of service history that you can take a look at.

You’ll definitely want to test drive the bike. Some sellers may not want to let you take it for a ride, which is ok, just make sure that you have given the bike a thorough inspection. Listen for any strange sounds or weird feelings. Feel out the clutch and engine. More than anything though, make sure this is a bike that you feel comfortable on and would want to ride.

Feel free to quiz the seller. You’ll be able to tell whether or not they are being honest with you. Ask them if the bike has ever been crashed, if they maintained it properly, and if they made any modifications to the bike. You can also feel free to ask them why they are selling.

While this list won’t guarantee a perfect condition bike, it will help you avoid being taken advantage of and getting a worthless bike.

-Julie

I’m currently in the process of buying a house and while stressful, I’ve noticed that there are a lot of good deals on the market, and not just in housing. If you can be patient, you just might end up with more than you had originally though you could afford!

I’m finding that buying and selling is a crazy art. While sellers want their money’s worth, the cost of holding out eventually starts to outweigh the cost of owning and advertising it. As buyers, we need to try to guess just when the seller has reached their breaking point and will give you the great deal you’ve been dreaming about.

Buying your first motorcycle used is definitely a great idea. You can end up with a great bike at a price way below market rates.

First decide just how much you want to spend. Remember that typically you will be able to negotiate on prices, so if you want to spend $3000, you can really look at bikes in the $3500 range. You may even be able to get the bike for less than $3000 depending on how good your negotiating skills are. Also good to keep in mind are other costs, including gear, insurance, and gas. So just because you have $3000 in your pocket to spend doesn’t mean you should unless you can afford the daily costs.

The greatest part of looking for a motorcycle now (or house in my situation) is that the current market is terrible for sellers. Many things are taking months to sell, whereas just last year that same item would have sold in less than 2 hours. Also, today many more people are anxious to sell luxury items and get rid of hobbies they just can’t afford. I suggest rather than jumping on the first thing you like, waiting it out. Review your options and watch the ads. More than likely, if the bike hasn’t sold in the first week, the seller will drop the price the second week, especially if they are desperate to sell.

Depending on where the seller is advertising, the cost of running the ad can get costly. For instance, if you are looking in the local paper under classified, the seller may have paid $30 - $50 for that ad. Advertising online can be free, but sometimes sellers will incur a minimal cost even there. Sellers don’t want to keep losing money on something they’re trying to get rid of in the first place. Trust me, if the seller has made the decision to get rid of the bike, they really don’t want to have to pay for it or have it take up space any longer than they have to.

Once you’ve searched and waited, and found the deal, its time to make a move. Call and set up an appointment, see the bike, and make sure you really can’t live without it. If you’re unsure, don’t make a deal. New bikes are popping up on the market everyday!

When you’re ready to make a deal remember its ok to try to negotiate the price, but don’t insult the seller. While they may be ready to get rid of the bike, they also aren’t going to give away their possessions for free. If you’ve done your research you should have a pretty good idea of what the bike is worth and what others on the market are going for. It’s never good to go in and just pay full price without trying to negotiate, especially if you really can’t afford it.

Offering cash on the spot is a great incentive for sellers. Obviously they want their money, so the quicker they can get it the happier they are, and the more willing they are to give you what you want.

- Julie

Besides leather jackets being a cool fashion statement, they can also keep you safe on the road and serve as a “skin” between you and the road. A riding jacket of any kind is essential for keeping you not only safe, but warm and dry. Most riders choose leather jackets to keep them safe on the road. Understanding the different types of leather will help you in your purchase for the perfect riding jacket.

Leather obviously comes from the skin of an animal, usually either cattle or water buffalo. Tanning the hides turns the material into durable, strong leather than can be used in a variety of ways. The material can be tanned with a variety of different chemicals to produce various types of leather including vegetable-tanned leather (used for armor and book binding), aldehyde-tanned leather (producing a white leather used in children’s shoes), or rawhide (used for lacing and dog chews).

Leather is typically sold in three forms:

Split Leather
This leather uses the middle or lower section of a hide has been split into two or more layers. Split leather has an chemical layer applied to make it look similar to grain leather. This type of leather can also be used to make suede. Split leather, while it may look good, is not usually considered good for riding.

Corrected Grain
This leather has been sanded to remove any scars, insect bites or brands. Corrected grain leather is made from top grain, though referred to as corrected grain since the surface has been corrected. While corrected grain is good leather, and imperfections are corrected, it is still not the top of the line. This type of leather is typically about 2mm makes this leather very durable and good for riding.

Full-Grain/Top Grain
This type of leather is made from the upper section of the hide and has not gone through any sanding or corrections. Full grain leather remains natural, resulting in the highest strength and durability. This leather will wear well and will actually improve over time. As this is the ultimate leather, used for many purposes, it is the most expensive.

If you plan on buying a leather jacket, consider weather conditions in your area. Leather will definitely keep you warm on cold days, but may be too hot for some in warmer climates. Also, leather is not meant to get wet, so if you live in wet weather, you may want to consider another alternative.

Besides leather being fashionable, durable and protective, a good leather jacket will last a long time as well. While leather can be expensive, most of the time you will certainly get your money’s worth if you take care of it.

Leather jackets can be purchased online at www.rockheadbikes.com.

- Julie

Rounding out some of the best beginner bikes is the Honda Nighthawk 250. The 234 cc, air-cooled, SOHC engine is perfect for any beginner rider. This Nighthawk series is one of Honda’s signature bikes, having been around since 1991, with little to no changes each year. One can rest easy when purchasing a Nighthawk, as they are known to be a very reliable bike.

The Nighthawk has a seat height of 29.3 inches, making the bike very comfortable and inviting smaller riders to give it a try. The comfort of this bike allows new riders to concentrate more on the road ahead of them and less on whether they are riding in the right position.

Another great part of this bike is its simplicity. Shifting is very simple, making the Nighthawk an easy to control bike and filling beginners with confidence. The controls on the bike are easy to use and understand. After a few rides, you’ll become so accustomed to the bike that using the controls will become like second nature, allowing you to focus on the road.

One of the biggest benefits of the Honda Nighthawk is that it is more than just a beginner bike. Many intermediate riders find this a great bike to hold on to, even after they’ve mastered riding. So, at a price of $3,699, you can be sure that you are getting a great deal with the Nighthawk.

Specs:
Engine Type: 234cc air-cooled vertical twin-cylinder
Bore And Stroke: 53mm x 53mm
Compression Ratio: 9.2:1
Valve Train: SOHC; two valves per cylinder
Transmission: Five-speed
Front Brake: Drum
Rear Brake: Drum
Front Tire : 90/100-18
Rear Tire : 120/90-16
Wheelbase: 56.3 inches
Seat Height: 29.3 inches
Curb Weight: 315 lbs
Fuel Capacity: 4.3 gallons
MSRP: $3,699

-Julie

One thing that I’ve never really addressed is why it’s so important to start riding on a 250cc. Many of you are probably wondering why we encourage beginner riders to start on a 250. While some of the benefits might be implied, I wanted to outline a few reasons why it really is recommended for beginning riders to start small.

1. You'll Learn Faster
Riding a motorcycle isn’t exactly easy. It’s not like riding a huffy. Until you really learn and understand how motorcycles work, something larger than a 250 will just be too much. A 250 has just enough power for a beginner to learn the ins and outs of riding. You need to learn to shift properly, take turns at an appropriate speed and when to lean before you can really handle a bigger bike. Starting on a 500 or 600 will be too much power and can lead to some devastating results. Until you can really operate a 250 will skill and agility, something bigger can be a huge mistake.

2. They are Cheap to Buy and Run
You can typically get a brand new 250 for under $4000, and a used one for even less. Bigger bikes can run closer to $9000! That’s a lot of money to spend on a bike that you’ll probably drop at least a few times as a rookie.

Smaller bikes also tend to get more miles to the gallon that larger bikes do. A small engine means that less gas is needed to get to your destination. Smaller motorcycles are cheaper to insure too!

For a bike that may get scratched and dented, a smaller bike will definitely be the way to start!

3. They Hold Resale Value
Once you graduate to a bigger bike, there will be tons of rookie riders looking for their first bike, hence the purchase of your old bike! Most new riders are looking to start on a smaller 250, and are looking for a used bike. This high demand keeps resale value pretty high. Chances are if you bought your bike used, then you will get back most or all of the money you paid!

Another great benefit is that if you get a 250 and realize the sport isn’t for you, you’ll be able to recoup almost all of the money that you put into starting. No waste there!

4. You Can Ride Them to Their Limits
Most bigger bikes are so powerful that you have to have a death wish to actually ride them to their limits. You will find very few riders who have the skill to ride their bike all out on main roads.

With most 250’s reaching top speed at or about 100mph, you can really open them up out on the free road. You can’t do that on a 500 or 600, unless of course you really want to risk your life.

Starting out on a 250 just makes sense. For those that decide to start out on a larger bike – good luck. Hopefully you won’t find yourself throwing your money away.

-Julie